So you want know more about what leather. I'll try to give you a course on the basics to help you make better choices whether you buy here or not. In times past you didn't need to worry about if the belt you were buying was leather. When cost went up quality went down when manufactures began using low cost alternatives such as bonded, man-made, vinyl, importing from china. So you can either buy few bonded/man-made "leather" products or spend your money once & get something to use for many years.
People have thought they were buying leather but realized that their "leather" belt was falling apart. That's why people ask me at shows "is this leather?" They try peeling it apart, rubbing it firmly with their hands, anything to convince themselves that it's not leather.
*Read the information below to better inform yourself. I use full/top grain vegetable tanned cowhide (mainly double shoulders,sides) for almost all of the products I make in weights (thickness, see information below) from 1oz to 9/10oz.
Double Shoulder A + B
Belly E or F
Double Butts C + D
Bends C or D
Side G+A+C+E or B+D+F+H
Full Hide - All of the above parts
1. Bonded leather, or as I like to call it... particle board, is an artificial material composed of leather scraps (often waste scraps from leather tanneries or leather workshops). These leather scraps are ground into particles are now glued into fabric and have a "fake top grain" (see top grain leather below) applied. It now looks like leather and since its made of more 50% leather it can have leather stamped on it. It's looks like and has a feel and sometimes identical to that of genuine leather but at a
fraction of the cost. Examples of products that are most commonly constructed with bonded
leather are: bibles, diaries, art books, desk accessories, hymnals,
bags, belts, chairs, and sofas. There are manufacturers who call their chemical treated leather, bonded leather.
2. Split Leather: Leather made from the lower (inner or
flesh side) layers of a hide that have been split away from the upper,
or grain, layers. Split leather is more fragile than side leather or full-grain leather, and is typically used in the form of suede. However, manufacturers use a variety of
techniques to make suede appear to be full-grain. For example, in one
operation, leather finish is applied to one side of the suede, which is
then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of
the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain. Latigo
is one of the trade names for this product.A reversed suede is a
grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with
the grain facing away from the visible surface.
3.Full-grain leather or top-grain refers to the upper layer of a hide (the hair side). Leather which has not been changed beyond hair
removal. Full grain leather is the most genuine type of leather, as it
retains all of the natural scars and markings of the original hide. Leather whose top (outermost) layers have been left intact, in contrast to split leather. The hair is removed from the hide/skin. The grain remains in its natural state which will allow the
best fiber strength, resulting in greater durability. The natural full-grain surface will wear better than other
leather. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a natural *patina (The aura or luster that develops in a quality piece of leather with age ) The finest leather furniture, footwear, saddlery are made from full-grain leather. For these reasons only
the best raw hide are used in order to create full-grain or top-grain
leather.
Full grain Leather can also be "stamped" with
a design (which is what I do) or artificial texture under very high pressure. Used, for
example, to create imitation alligator hide. I also sell belts that have been embossed with patterns from this high quality leather.
Antiqued full grain: Leather that is dyed with one color over
another (usually darker over lighter) so as to create rich highlights
and an artificial aged appearance.
Also called distressed leather.
Distressed: Another term for antiqued leather.
Vegetable Tanning: method of hide tanning which
utilizes materials from organic materials such as bark instead of the
traditional chemicals. Vegetable tanned leather has greater body and
firmness than traditionally-tanned leather.
More types of leather
Nubuc: A leather whose surface has been buffed and brushed to create a soft, velvety effect. Differs from suede in that while suede is created from the flesh (inner) side of a hide, nubuc is created using the grain (outer) side, giving it added strength and durability. Oil Tanned: Leather that is tanned using oils to create a very soft, pliable finish.
Pull-up: Describes the behavior of leather that has
been treated with oils, waxes, and dyes in such a way that when the
leather is pulled or stretched (i.e. on upholstery), the finish becomes
lighter in the stretched areas. Considered a mark of high quality.
Antiqued: Leather that is dyed with one color over another (usually darker over lighter) so as to create rich highlights and an artificial aged appearance.
Also called distressed leather.
Distressed: Another term for antiqued leather.
Vegetable Tanning: A method of hide tanning which utilizes materials from organic materials such as bark instead of the traditional chemicals. Vegetable tanned leather has greater body and firmness than traditionally-tanned leather.
Weight: A term which describes the heaviness or thickness of leather. Typically given in ounces per square foot or millimeters (thickness). Embossed Leather: Leather that has been "stamped" with a design or artificial texture under very high pressure. Used, for example, to create imitation
alligator hide.
Drum Dying: The process of coloring leather by tumbling it in a rotating drum immersed in dye. A very effective method allowing maximum dye penetration.
Pull-up: Describes the behavior of leather that has been treated with oils, waxes, and dyes in such a way that when the leather is pulled or stretched (i.e. on upholstery), the finish becomes lighter in the stretched areas. Considered a mark of high quality.
Leather Care
There are various types and grades of leathers, each serving a different purpose. Some require a bit more maintenance than others, but all follow a set
guideline of care to ensure a longer life.
There are four stages in leather care that include cleaning, conditioning, polishing, and protection. When perusing the store shelves for a product that
fits your needs, be watchful for what kind of product you're purchasing. It can be confusing to try and figure out which product is for which stage, but look for words that explain how the product is to be used. It is also important to remember to work on your leather in a well-ventilated area. Some leather care products are very strong and can cause irritations.
Cleaning To clean a leather item, first choose a cleaner that will help preserve the natural lubricating oils instead of stripping them. For example, saddle soap is
a commonly used product for equestrian tack. It is meant to be used as a cleaner and a protector from moisture, but it strips the leather of the oils in the
process of attempting to do two jobs at once. The cleaner of your choice should not leave any greasy residue behind. Residue makes leather susceptible to bacteria and can break down the stitching of your item. Before applying anything to your leather item, be certain to test it out for effect and possible
color distortion on an area that isn't visible to the eye. Once you've ascertained whether the leather care product is acceptable to use, apply it to your item. With a slightly dampened cloth, remove the cleaning product. For areas with stitches, there are brushes available on the market. Another cleaning product to consider having in your leather care collection is a nubuck cleaning cloth. They have an astonishing ability to clean and restore leather to its original look.
Conditioning
Leather conditioners are meant for occasional use. They contain fats and/or oils that help lubricate leather and replenish the suppleness. Look for a
product that will penetrate the strong fibers in leather, but beware of any that include petroleum or mineral oils. While petroleum by-products won't damage your leather immediately, they do over a period of time. Again, just as with cleaning, keep on the look out for thick, greasy conditioning treatments for the best care of your leather.
Polishing
Polishing is done for special occasions when you want a more glossy finish on your leather. There are a couple things to be wary of when purchasing a
polishing agent. Some products contain coloring factors that will brush off on things you come in contact with. Some products also have a tendency to
clog the pores in leather or dry leather out. Just as with cleaning, be sure to test out the product on a small area and when ready, buff to a shine.
Protection
Moisture barriers are extremely crucial in preventing rain or other liquid hazards from damaging leather. Stiffness and spouting will happen if leather isn't
protected beforehand. There is a drawback in protecting leather with a moisture barrier product. They tend to fill in the pores with a greasiness that
makes cleaning, conditioning, and polishing difficult, but it's a necessary process to ensure leather isn't destroyed. Periodically apply a moisture barrier and
allow it time to penetrate and dry before using your leather item.
Removing Mildew
To remove mildew from leather, create a mixture of one-cup rubbing alcohol per one-cup of water. Wipe the mildew area with a cloth dipped in the diluted alcohol, then allow it to dry. If the mildew persists, use mild soap and water that contains a germicide, then remove with a clean dampened cloth and allow to dry.
Wet Leather
An important key to keeping leather in top-notch condition is to treat wet leather before it has a chance to dry. Remove any dirt, mud, or other stains
with a cleaning agent, then condition while the pores are still fully responsive. It is critical to remember that leather should be dried away from heat. If the
leather in question is a garment, it's a good idea to stuff the garment to retain shape.
Storing Leather/Garments
Remember that leather is a natural material and should never be stored in plastic because it encourages the growth of mildew and bacteria and will ruin the
leather. Always store leather in a cool, dry place away from heat. If the leather item is a garment, store in a breathable bag.
Removing Stains
Fresh stains from things such as blood and food can be cleaned up quickly with a damp cloth. Stains from oil or grease can be lifted by grinding ordinary
blackboard chalk, sprinkling the area, and leaving the powder on for a twenty-four hour period. Resist the urge to rub the powder in. After a sufficient time has past, simply use a leather care brush to remove the powder. While fresh stains can be treated and cleaned at home, ground-in stains should be attended to by a professional cleaner who deals in leather.
LEATHER THICKNESS CHART
Thickness: As most leather today is sold in "ounce"
thickness, the approximate equivalent in inch
fractions or millimeters can be compared below. As the
hide can still vary in thickness from one part of the
hide to another, the gauge is usually defined in
ranges, for example 3 - 4 ounces, means the skin will
be between 3 and 4 ounces throughout the hide.
